Balancing Instructable Robot
In this structure I want to show you how to make a self-balancing robot.
What makes it unique is that it looks like an Instructure robot.
Internally, it works on the principle of PID, and is a very popular control system used to keep variables unaffected by fluctuations.
In this note, I used the MPU6050, which is a gyro and an accelerometer in a single package.
The gyro is used to find the angle direction and acceleration.
For our application, we only need the gyro data.
First of all, I will discuss the various applications and knowledge gained from this project.
If you feel that this guidance is good, please vote motion for my entries in the guide robot contest.
The efficiency of the control system depends on the tuning of the three variables, that is, the proportional constant, the integral constant and the derivative constant, so the precise control of the robot will be realized once you tune the variable.
I have provided most of the instructions for making robots.
This robot is at the intermediate level of robotics, so beginners should not be frustrated because it is challenging for me! ! !
The material of use balance robot can be divided into two categories as shown in: ________________________________________________________________________________________ please note that I not for acrylic plate mentioned but hylam tablets (Bakelite Sheet).
It is very similar to acrylic but harder and easier to cut.
It is usually used in total chassis in India.
There may or may not be any in your country, so I mentioned it as an acrylic sheet.
This step is to make the chassis parts that make up the base of the robot.
As I mentioned earlier, instead of acrylic, I use Hylam tablets.
The base consists of two bars for the motor and a rectangular base for the vertical installation of these bars.
Prepare the body according to these instructions.
Step 1: In this step, I cut the bar that supports the motor.
I have cut them in 2 cm x 8 cm size.
This material is much stronger than the acrylic sheet.
Step 2: After drawing the sketch, use a hacksaw or jigsaw cutter to cut the part out.
A lot of dust will be generated during the cutting process.
Cut out the sheets in a well ventilated room.
Step 3: The next step is to support the base of the two lines.
Draw a rectangle about 14 cm wide and about 18 cm long.
Then draw the middle.
As shown in the figure, the bottom is along the line of width.
This line will serve as a reference line for the installation bar.
Step 4: Use a hacksaw or jigsaw cutter to cut out this drawn part as shown in the figure.
Use the mark as a reference and clean the board later to remove the mark line.
Step 5: draw two vertical lines next, as shown in the figure.
These lines motion are used to align the fixture of the motor.
Through this step, we have finally completed the chassis components.
The next step is the motor and wheel assembly.
Then after cutting the chassis parts, assemble the motor with the strips we cut before, and then connect the strips to us using L-clamps.
The motor needs the holes through which the wires pass, so they should be cut in addition to the clamping holes.
Step 6: cut some double sided tape and stick it to one end of the tape, as shown in the figure.
This method does not require clamping with nuts and bolts.
Step 7: remove the double-sided tape cover and expose the other side of the tape.
Place the motor on the tape so that it is parallel to the tape.
Step 8: then tighten the motor to the belt using a cable tie.
This ensures that the motor is firmly fixed on the belt.
Step 9: cut off the extra cable tie using stripping or scissors.
Step 10: install the wheel into the motor and tighten the joint using the screws shown in the figure. processor
There you have finished the work of installing the motor on the strap.
Repeat the process of the second one and you will get two robot legs with wheels.
The final chart shows the completed legs.
With this page, we will complete the chassis of the Instructable robot.
The ready chassis is very strong and stable, capable of handling the weight of the battery and electronic equipment.
The motors in the picture are dirty, please forgive me as I have been using them for my other projects.
Step 11: In this step I use L-
Clip, basically a part of my childhood Engineering Series.
It will be easy for you to find L-
The clip also provides links to some clips.
In any case, place the clip on the top of the free end of the strap.
Then mark the holes of the clip using the marker.
Step 12: repeat the same procedure for another motor strip.
You will get two strips marked with holes and ready for drilling.
Step 13: This step shows me drilling holes on two motor strips.
These holes are made from a 4mm drill bit. bit.
Step 14: place the fixture on the motherboard before installing the fixture on the Strip, as shown in the figure.
Then drill holes using marks.
Step 15: This step shows me drilling holes at the bottom of the chassis.
Note: I only drilled two holes in the previous picture, but the wire needs another hole through the chassis.
So please make another hole. digital
Step 16: After you have completed all these steps, you will get the assembled parts as shown in the following figure.
Step 17: I did not provide any pictures of tightening the NUT and the robot, but once screwed in it will be shown in the figure.
After all these steps are completed, the completed chassis will be shown in the figure.
The batteries, ultrasonic sensors and electronic devices are all in the chassis.
This ended the mechanical work required for this project.
Let\'s continue wiring electronics for robots.
The next few steps will have some dazzling sketches, some additional images, and some descriptions of the modules we are using.
This way you know how the module works and how it works.
The steps below show us how to connect the motor and repair the battery.
Step 18: In this step, I weld the wire to the motor terminal.
Step 19: as shown in the figure, pass the wire through the extra holes we drill in the fixture.
Step 20: place the module on the base and mark the hole with the mark.
Step 21: In this step, I use the 4mm bit for use.
Step 22: fix the module to the base using some nuts and bolts.
This holds the module firmly to the base.
Step 23: connect the motor to the motor terminal of the module and connect the 9 v battery connector to the power terminal of the module.
Step 24: finally tighten the terminal with screws
Drive to secure the wires.
This includes mounting the gyro sensor module and the Arduino UNO board onto the base of the robot.
Step 25: First mark the holes of the Arduino module on the base using the marker.
Step 26: drill with the same 4mm bit.
The Arduino\'s three holes are enough to fit into the seat.
Step 27: This step shows the holes drilled on the base of the robot.
Please ignore the extra holes in my previous incorrect installation attempt.
Step 28: Finally use some screws as shown to screw the Arduino to the end of the seat.
Step 29: place the gyro module on the base and mark the hole using the marker.
Step 30: drill holes and install the module as shown in the figure.
I also provide a side view of the module installed on the base.
The higher the module, the better, so use the long screws as shown.
This ended the installation of the motor drive module, gyro and Arduino UNO.
I have provided the wiring diagram of the motor driver, please use this chart.
Connect the respective pins using jumpers. I can\'t show the steps in this regard, but I think I have provided enough images.
The final image shows the chassis with the motor drive board and battery.
Because this project involves a lot of power pins.
I have to do a power pin extender.
It\'s not my own idea, but I got it from another structure.
Take a look at Wenzej, the manufacturer of the idea \"Arduino micro-power extension shield.
Anyway, I \'ve added a Mini-Note to the power pins that extend the Arduino.
Step 31: First weld 4-
Pin connectors as shown in the figure.
Step 32: remove 4-plasticPin Connector.
This needs to be careful as the metal head may fall off.
Step 33: Insert the parent headline into the strip board as shown in the figure.
Step 34: weld the power rail as shown in the figure.
Then you will finish it.
The final image shows the completed module, and another image shows the module inserted into the Arduino UNO power pin.
As you know, this project uses PID control.
So we need to set the value of the scale, the derivative, and the integral constant.
So I set the value easily in this simple way.
Basically, I use the analog pins of the potentiometer and Arduino to set the values.
The potentiometer gives us a value of 0 v to 5 v and then converts it to a value of 0 to 255.
The following code is responsible for this conversion.
So, with the map command, you can set the value just by turning the potentiometer, and you can set the value of the constant dynamically.
This saves the trouble of changing the values of constants in your code and re-programming them repeatedly.
I have attached a sketch of the potentiometer circuit.
Step 35: Mark the holes that need to be inserted into the potentiometer using the marker.
Step 36: drill holes on the marked base using a 12mm drill bit.
Step 37: Before we insert the potentiometer.
We need to drill holes for additional flanges from the potentiometer.
This flange is used to prevent the potentiometer from rotating.
Mark the flange position with marks.
Step 38: 2mm drill holes at these positions of the potentiometer flange.
Step 39: Insert the potentiometer into the hole and finally tighten the nut in the potentiometer to fix it at the bottom of the base.
Step 40: fix the knob on the potentiometer shaft to make it look more beautiful.
Step 41: connect the power pin to both ends of the potentiometer as shown in the figure.
Step 42: finally pin the wiper (middle pin)
Analog pins for Arduino.
The final chart shows the completed wired module.
I also provide a sample code to test the potentiometer to check if the potentiometer is working properly.
Wiring the circuit, as shown in the figure, you will be able to adjust the PID constant, and the serial monitor will display the constant value.
If all goes well, you will get output similar to the final image.
The motor driver I use in this project uses L298 dual H-
Bridge motor driver.
The reason I chose this motherboard is that it has an advantage over other drivers.
The current of L298 IC is 2A.
Another reason is that I burned quite a few L293 motor drives due to low amp capacity.
Let\'s start with the pins of the L298 board. Enable Pin (ENA and ENB)
: This pin needs to be set to high, otherwise the board will not process commands issued through other pins.
Therefore, when the Arduino becomes high, this pin allows the IC to receive commands from the Arduino.
Current sensing pin (CSA and CSB)
: The current sensing pin can usually be connected to the ground, but can be inserted into a low-value resistor whose voltage reading is proportional to the current.
We can tie them to the ground.
Note that if your motherboard is not just forgetting this pin, it may or may not contain this pin. Input Pins (
1, IN2, IN3 and IN4)
: As the name suggests, these pins will be sent to Arduino.
IN1 and IN2 belong to Channel A, and IN3 and IN4 belong to channel B.
The truth table for operating two motors is as follows.
My introduction to the l298 motor drive board ends here.
This board can be purchased in this link or made, I haven\'t finished the tutorial on how to make my own.
I provided the wiring diagram to connect the L298 to the Arduino.
The final chart shows the jumper connected on the base of the robot.
Since both motors are driven in the same direction, we connect it to the same analog pin of the Arduino.
Since the Arduino contains only six analog pins, the motor is driven by the same pin.
The MPU6050 is one of the best and cheapest accelerometer and gyro modules you can buy.
The function performed for the price is excellent.
Module is open-
Digital motion processor™(DMP™)
Capable of handling complex 9-axis Motion-
Fusion algorithm.
The variables needed for this project are just sideways, sideways and sideways, and they are used to describe the rotation that occurs on the three axes of the robot.
In this link, the MPU6050 can be purchased cheaply.
I also provide a sketch of the frame that connects the mpu6050.
I provide a sample code that can test the MPU6050.
The final image shows the MPU6050 connected to the Robot Arduino. Power Pin (Vcc)
: Used to provide positive voltage to the MPU6050 module. Ground Pin (GND)
: Connect to the ground pin of the Arduino.
SDA and cl pins: used to establish a connection with Arduino analog pins A4 and A5 to receive accelerometer and gyro data. Interrupt Pin (INT)
: This pin indicates when the Arduino reads data from the module, and this pin indicates the Arduino only if the value changes.
I have provided a small code for the test module before entering the main code.
This code is written by Jeff Rowberg, so just use the following steps to include the Library: We have almost finished the business side of the robot.
These steps summarize the power supply of the board.
Step 43: Put some double sided tape on the base as shown in the figure.
It is simpler than connecting the battery to the base.
Step 44: stick the battery to the double-sided tape.
Plug the 9 v power connector into the Arduino board.
Step 45: Plug in the power connector on the 9 v battery and supply power to all modules.
The next step contains the code and other details used to make the robot.
Just upload the code to the Arduino and connect the power to the corresponding motherboard.
After some tuning of the PID constant, a good result can be obtained.
I have provided a video in the next step.
Once you have the bot finally upload the code and give the bot a test run time.
I have provided the full code, just upload it and try to use the PID constant for proper balance.
If the connection follows completely, if the motor does not go back to the previous step and check the connection again, you will make the motor turn at least in one direction.
When everything goes well, you will get the results as shown in the test video above.
Next, I will give some instructions on how to get decent results from the PID constant.
Note that this is my first successful balancing robot.
So I \'ve balanced the robot, but there\'s definitely room for improvement.
In the future, I want to do a more precise PID control balancing robot, maybe there will be more functions in the future.
As you already know, the base of my robot is about 17 by 12.
5cms cut the part according to the instructions in the picture provided.
Step 46th: cut the first picture into two separate sides.
Note that one side is a mirror image of the other.
After this step, you will have two cutting pieces.
Step 47: cut the second image into the dimensions provided.
This piece will serve as the back of the guiding robot.
Step 48: Finally cut as the third image of the front and top of the robot.
Step 49th: cut individual pieces with scissors.
Step 50: place the cut part as shown in the figure and tape the part up using transparent tape.
Step 51: as shown in the figure, place another mirror image of the first cut piece and tape it up.
Step 52nd: finally tape the part in front and you finish the side of the body.
Step 53rd: fold the pieces into a square and tie the last side to the box with tape.
Tape all sides to make it hard.
Step 54: fold the top flap to form the top bottom.
Then stick a rectangle of size 8.
5 to 17 cm and stick it to the top of the robot.
Step 55: cut the 10 cm square into six sides and stick them together with tape to form a box.
Step 56: Put some double sided tape on the base and stick the prepared head to the base.
Step 57: finally sketch the features of the robot, complete the robot, and attach two toothpicks on both sides of the head.
Step 58: make two yellow cylinders to cover the motor of the robot and form the leg of the robot.
Step 59: stick the robot cardboard body to the robot\'s mechanical base with some transparent tape, and then you are done.
Step 60: turn on the robot, turn on the power, turn off the robot and see that your balance robot is running.
The project is finally over.
Personally, there are a lot of difficulties to complete this project, but after I finished the first balancing robot, I felt it was all worth it.
I have not learned much from this project and I hope you have learned it too.
I have provided a video showing the final performance of the robot.
I look forward to my next instruction.
If you have any comments or suggestions on this project, please ask.
If you feel the project is good, please vote
What makes it unique is that it looks like an Instructure robot.
Internally, it works on the principle of PID, and is a very popular control system used to keep variables unaffected by fluctuations.
In this note, I used the MPU6050, which is a gyro and an accelerometer in a single package.
The gyro is used to find the angle direction and acceleration.
For our application, we only need the gyro data.
First of all, I will discuss the various applications and knowledge gained from this project.
If you feel that this guidance is good, please vote motion for my entries in the guide robot contest.
The efficiency of the control system depends on the tuning of the three variables, that is, the proportional constant, the integral constant and the derivative constant, so the precise control of the robot will be realized once you tune the variable.
I have provided most of the instructions for making robots.
This robot is at the intermediate level of robotics, so beginners should not be frustrated because it is challenging for me! ! !
The material of use balance robot can be divided into two categories as shown in: ________________________________________________________________________________________ please note that I not for acrylic plate mentioned but hylam tablets (Bakelite Sheet).
It is very similar to acrylic but harder and easier to cut.
It is usually used in total chassis in India.
There may or may not be any in your country, so I mentioned it as an acrylic sheet.
This step is to make the chassis parts that make up the base of the robot.
As I mentioned earlier, instead of acrylic, I use Hylam tablets.
The base consists of two bars for the motor and a rectangular base for the vertical installation of these bars.
Prepare the body according to these instructions.
Step 1: In this step, I cut the bar that supports the motor.
I have cut them in 2 cm x 8 cm size.
This material is much stronger than the acrylic sheet.
Step 2: After drawing the sketch, use a hacksaw or jigsaw cutter to cut the part out.
A lot of dust will be generated during the cutting process.
Cut out the sheets in a well ventilated room.
Step 3: The next step is to support the base of the two lines.
Draw a rectangle about 14 cm wide and about 18 cm long.
Then draw the middle.
As shown in the figure, the bottom is along the line of width.
This line will serve as a reference line for the installation bar.
Step 4: Use a hacksaw or jigsaw cutter to cut out this drawn part as shown in the figure.
Use the mark as a reference and clean the board later to remove the mark line.
Step 5: draw two vertical lines next, as shown in the figure.
These lines motion are used to align the fixture of the motor.
Through this step, we have finally completed the chassis components.
The next step is the motor and wheel assembly.
Then after cutting the chassis parts, assemble the motor with the strips we cut before, and then connect the strips to us using L-clamps.
The motor needs the holes through which the wires pass, so they should be cut in addition to the clamping holes.
Step 6: cut some double sided tape and stick it to one end of the tape, as shown in the figure.
This method does not require clamping with nuts and bolts.
Step 7: remove the double-sided tape cover and expose the other side of the tape.
Place the motor on the tape so that it is parallel to the tape.
Step 8: then tighten the motor to the belt using a cable tie.
This ensures that the motor is firmly fixed on the belt.
Step 9: cut off the extra cable tie using stripping or scissors.
Step 10: install the wheel into the motor and tighten the joint using the screws shown in the figure. processor
There you have finished the work of installing the motor on the strap.
Repeat the process of the second one and you will get two robot legs with wheels.
The final chart shows the completed legs.
With this page, we will complete the chassis of the Instructable robot.
The ready chassis is very strong and stable, capable of handling the weight of the battery and electronic equipment.
The motors in the picture are dirty, please forgive me as I have been using them for my other projects.
Step 11: In this step I use L-
Clip, basically a part of my childhood Engineering Series.
It will be easy for you to find L-
The clip also provides links to some clips.
In any case, place the clip on the top of the free end of the strap.
Then mark the holes of the clip using the marker.
Step 12: repeat the same procedure for another motor strip.
You will get two strips marked with holes and ready for drilling.
Step 13: This step shows me drilling holes on two motor strips.
These holes are made from a 4mm drill bit. bit.
Step 14: place the fixture on the motherboard before installing the fixture on the Strip, as shown in the figure.
Then drill holes using marks.
Step 15: This step shows me drilling holes at the bottom of the chassis.
Note: I only drilled two holes in the previous picture, but the wire needs another hole through the chassis.
So please make another hole. digital
Step 16: After you have completed all these steps, you will get the assembled parts as shown in the following figure.
Step 17: I did not provide any pictures of tightening the NUT and the robot, but once screwed in it will be shown in the figure.
After all these steps are completed, the completed chassis will be shown in the figure.
The batteries, ultrasonic sensors and electronic devices are all in the chassis.
This ended the mechanical work required for this project.
Let\'s continue wiring electronics for robots.
The next few steps will have some dazzling sketches, some additional images, and some descriptions of the modules we are using.
This way you know how the module works and how it works.
The steps below show us how to connect the motor and repair the battery.
Step 18: In this step, I weld the wire to the motor terminal.
Step 19: as shown in the figure, pass the wire through the extra holes we drill in the fixture.
Step 20: place the module on the base and mark the hole with the mark.
Step 21: In this step, I use the 4mm bit for use.
Step 22: fix the module to the base using some nuts and bolts.
This holds the module firmly to the base.
Step 23: connect the motor to the motor terminal of the module and connect the 9 v battery connector to the power terminal of the module.
Step 24: finally tighten the terminal with screws
Drive to secure the wires.
This includes mounting the gyro sensor module and the Arduino UNO board onto the base of the robot.
Step 25: First mark the holes of the Arduino module on the base using the marker.
Step 26: drill with the same 4mm bit.
The Arduino\'s three holes are enough to fit into the seat.
Step 27: This step shows the holes drilled on the base of the robot.
Please ignore the extra holes in my previous incorrect installation attempt.
Step 28: Finally use some screws as shown to screw the Arduino to the end of the seat.
Step 29: place the gyro module on the base and mark the hole using the marker.
Step 30: drill holes and install the module as shown in the figure.
I also provide a side view of the module installed on the base.
The higher the module, the better, so use the long screws as shown.
This ended the installation of the motor drive module, gyro and Arduino UNO.
I have provided the wiring diagram of the motor driver, please use this chart.
Connect the respective pins using jumpers. I can\'t show the steps in this regard, but I think I have provided enough images.
The final image shows the chassis with the motor drive board and battery.
Because this project involves a lot of power pins.
I have to do a power pin extender.
It\'s not my own idea, but I got it from another structure.
Take a look at Wenzej, the manufacturer of the idea \"Arduino micro-power extension shield.
Anyway, I \'ve added a Mini-Note to the power pins that extend the Arduino.
Step 31: First weld 4-
Pin connectors as shown in the figure.
Step 32: remove 4-plasticPin Connector.
This needs to be careful as the metal head may fall off.
Step 33: Insert the parent headline into the strip board as shown in the figure.
Step 34: weld the power rail as shown in the figure.
Then you will finish it.
The final image shows the completed module, and another image shows the module inserted into the Arduino UNO power pin.
As you know, this project uses PID control.
So we need to set the value of the scale, the derivative, and the integral constant.
So I set the value easily in this simple way.
Basically, I use the analog pins of the potentiometer and Arduino to set the values.
The potentiometer gives us a value of 0 v to 5 v and then converts it to a value of 0 to 255.
The following code is responsible for this conversion.
So, with the map command, you can set the value just by turning the potentiometer, and you can set the value of the constant dynamically.
This saves the trouble of changing the values of constants in your code and re-programming them repeatedly.
I have attached a sketch of the potentiometer circuit.
Step 35: Mark the holes that need to be inserted into the potentiometer using the marker.
Step 36: drill holes on the marked base using a 12mm drill bit.
Step 37: Before we insert the potentiometer.
We need to drill holes for additional flanges from the potentiometer.
This flange is used to prevent the potentiometer from rotating.
Mark the flange position with marks.
Step 38: 2mm drill holes at these positions of the potentiometer flange.
Step 39: Insert the potentiometer into the hole and finally tighten the nut in the potentiometer to fix it at the bottom of the base.
Step 40: fix the knob on the potentiometer shaft to make it look more beautiful.
Step 41: connect the power pin to both ends of the potentiometer as shown in the figure.
Step 42: finally pin the wiper (middle pin)
Analog pins for Arduino.
The final chart shows the completed wired module.
I also provide a sample code to test the potentiometer to check if the potentiometer is working properly.
Wiring the circuit, as shown in the figure, you will be able to adjust the PID constant, and the serial monitor will display the constant value.
If all goes well, you will get output similar to the final image.
The motor driver I use in this project uses L298 dual H-
Bridge motor driver.
The reason I chose this motherboard is that it has an advantage over other drivers.
The current of L298 IC is 2A.
Another reason is that I burned quite a few L293 motor drives due to low amp capacity.
Let\'s start with the pins of the L298 board. Enable Pin (ENA and ENB)
: This pin needs to be set to high, otherwise the board will not process commands issued through other pins.
Therefore, when the Arduino becomes high, this pin allows the IC to receive commands from the Arduino.
Current sensing pin (CSA and CSB)
: The current sensing pin can usually be connected to the ground, but can be inserted into a low-value resistor whose voltage reading is proportional to the current.
We can tie them to the ground.
Note that if your motherboard is not just forgetting this pin, it may or may not contain this pin. Input Pins (
1, IN2, IN3 and IN4)
: As the name suggests, these pins will be sent to Arduino.
IN1 and IN2 belong to Channel A, and IN3 and IN4 belong to channel B.
The truth table for operating two motors is as follows.
My introduction to the l298 motor drive board ends here.
This board can be purchased in this link or made, I haven\'t finished the tutorial on how to make my own.
I provided the wiring diagram to connect the L298 to the Arduino.
The final chart shows the jumper connected on the base of the robot.
Since both motors are driven in the same direction, we connect it to the same analog pin of the Arduino.
Since the Arduino contains only six analog pins, the motor is driven by the same pin.
The MPU6050 is one of the best and cheapest accelerometer and gyro modules you can buy.
The function performed for the price is excellent.
Module is open-
Digital motion processor™(DMP™)
Capable of handling complex 9-axis Motion-
Fusion algorithm.
The variables needed for this project are just sideways, sideways and sideways, and they are used to describe the rotation that occurs on the three axes of the robot.
In this link, the MPU6050 can be purchased cheaply.
I also provide a sketch of the frame that connects the mpu6050.
I provide a sample code that can test the MPU6050.
The final image shows the MPU6050 connected to the Robot Arduino. Power Pin (Vcc)
: Used to provide positive voltage to the MPU6050 module. Ground Pin (GND)
: Connect to the ground pin of the Arduino.
SDA and cl pins: used to establish a connection with Arduino analog pins A4 and A5 to receive accelerometer and gyro data. Interrupt Pin (INT)
: This pin indicates when the Arduino reads data from the module, and this pin indicates the Arduino only if the value changes.
I have provided a small code for the test module before entering the main code.
This code is written by Jeff Rowberg, so just use the following steps to include the Library: We have almost finished the business side of the robot.
These steps summarize the power supply of the board.
Step 43: Put some double sided tape on the base as shown in the figure.
It is simpler than connecting the battery to the base.
Step 44: stick the battery to the double-sided tape.
Plug the 9 v power connector into the Arduino board.
Step 45: Plug in the power connector on the 9 v battery and supply power to all modules.
The next step contains the code and other details used to make the robot.
Just upload the code to the Arduino and connect the power to the corresponding motherboard.
After some tuning of the PID constant, a good result can be obtained.
I have provided a video in the next step.
Once you have the bot finally upload the code and give the bot a test run time.
I have provided the full code, just upload it and try to use the PID constant for proper balance.
If the connection follows completely, if the motor does not go back to the previous step and check the connection again, you will make the motor turn at least in one direction.
When everything goes well, you will get the results as shown in the test video above.
Next, I will give some instructions on how to get decent results from the PID constant.
Note that this is my first successful balancing robot.
So I \'ve balanced the robot, but there\'s definitely room for improvement.
In the future, I want to do a more precise PID control balancing robot, maybe there will be more functions in the future.
As you already know, the base of my robot is about 17 by 12.
5cms cut the part according to the instructions in the picture provided.
Step 46th: cut the first picture into two separate sides.
Note that one side is a mirror image of the other.
After this step, you will have two cutting pieces.
Step 47: cut the second image into the dimensions provided.
This piece will serve as the back of the guiding robot.
Step 48: Finally cut as the third image of the front and top of the robot.
Step 49th: cut individual pieces with scissors.
Step 50: place the cut part as shown in the figure and tape the part up using transparent tape.
Step 51: as shown in the figure, place another mirror image of the first cut piece and tape it up.
Step 52nd: finally tape the part in front and you finish the side of the body.
Step 53rd: fold the pieces into a square and tie the last side to the box with tape.
Tape all sides to make it hard.
Step 54: fold the top flap to form the top bottom.
Then stick a rectangle of size 8.
5 to 17 cm and stick it to the top of the robot.
Step 55: cut the 10 cm square into six sides and stick them together with tape to form a box.
Step 56: Put some double sided tape on the base and stick the prepared head to the base.
Step 57: finally sketch the features of the robot, complete the robot, and attach two toothpicks on both sides of the head.
Step 58: make two yellow cylinders to cover the motor of the robot and form the leg of the robot.
Step 59: stick the robot cardboard body to the robot\'s mechanical base with some transparent tape, and then you are done.
Step 60: turn on the robot, turn on the power, turn off the robot and see that your balance robot is running.
The project is finally over.
Personally, there are a lot of difficulties to complete this project, but after I finished the first balancing robot, I felt it was all worth it.
I have not learned much from this project and I hope you have learned it too.
I have provided a video showing the final performance of the robot.
I look forward to my next instruction.
If you have any comments or suggestions on this project, please ask.
If you feel the project is good, please vote
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